By the Rockhint team, Sialkot · Last updated: 6 October 2026
Quick answer: Brushed fleece is the warmer, softer choice for sweatshirts and hoodies; French terry is lighter, more breathable and better for layering and warm climates. Cotton-polyester blends shrink and pill less than 100% cotton while keeping a soft feel. As a rough guide, lighter sweatshirts sit around 250 GSM and heavyweight streetwear styles at 350 GSM and above, but always confirm the exact weight with your manufacturer.
Key takeaways
- Fleece is brushed on the inside for warmth; French terry has loops for breathability.
- Blends shrink and pill less than pure cotton; cotton feels softer and more natural.
- GSM tells you weight, not quality; construction and finishing matter too.
- Pre-shrunk or washed fabric reduces size changes after the first wash.
- Fabric affects which printing or embroidery method works best.
What is the difference between fleece and French terry?
Both are knitted fabrics with a smooth face and a textured back. In French terry, the back has small loops left intact. It is lighter, breathes well and drapes nicely, which suits spring and autumn, layering and warmer climates. In brushed fleece, those loops are brushed until they become soft and fluffy. That traps more air, so fleece is warmer and feels cosier, which suits winter and outdoor wear.
| French terry | Brushed fleece | |
|---|---|---|
| Inside feel | Looped, textured | Soft, fluffy |
| Warmth | Moderate | Higher |
| Breathability | Higher | Lower |
| Best for | Layering, mild weather, athleisure | Cold weather, cosy streetwear |
| Lint | Less | Can shed more when new |
Should you choose cotton, polyester or a blend?
- 100% cotton: soft and natural-feeling, prints beautifully, but more prone to shrinkage and wrinkling.
- Cotton-polyester blends (for example 80/20 or 60/40): a common choice for custom sweatshirts because they hold shape, shrink less and pill less than pure cotton.
- Polyester-rich fleece: durable and quick-drying, and the only option if you want full sublimation.
Stretch blends with a small amount of spandex add movement for training hoodies and joggers.
What GSM should a sweatshirt or hoodie be?
GSM means grams per square metre, the weight of the fabric. The ranges below are typical market descriptions, not fixed standards, and they vary between mills:
| Weight | Approximate GSM | Feel and use |
|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | around 220–280 | Layering, warm climates, athleisure |
| Midweight | around 280–340 | Everyday sweatshirts and team hoodies |
| Heavyweight | around 350 and above | Premium streetwear, boxy fits, cold weather |
A heavier fabric is not automatically better. Yarn quality, knitting, brushing and finishing all affect how a garment feels and lasts. Ask for the exact GSM and composition in your quote, and check it on the sample.
How do you avoid shrinkage and pilling?
Shrinkage mostly affects cotton-rich fabrics. Ask whether the fabric is pre-shrunk or washed before cutting, and wash your sample once before approving. Pilling happens when short fibres rub and tangle into small balls; blends with better yarns and a firmer knit pill less. Advise customers to wash inside out on a gentle cycle and avoid high-heat drying.
Which decoration works best on sweatshirt fabric?
- Embroidery: premium look, durable, ideal on fleece and French terry.
- Screen printing: bold, long-lasting prints on cotton and blends.
- DTF: detailed full-colour logos on cotton or blends, good for small runs.
- Sublimation: only on white or light polyester-rich fabrics.
- Patches and woven labels: add a premium, branded finish.
Which products use these fabrics?
At Rockhint we use these fabrics across custom sweatshirts, mock neck sweatshirts, performance hoodies, joggers and tracksuits. Tell us how the garment will be worn and in which climate, and we will suggest a fabric and weight.
Frequently asked questions
Is fleece or French terry warmer?
Brushed fleece is warmer because its brushed inner surface traps more air. French terry is lighter and more breathable.
What does GSM mean in sweatshirts?
GSM means grams per square metre. It measures fabric weight, so a higher GSM means a heavier, usually thicker fabric.
What GSM is a heavyweight hoodie?
Heavyweight hoodies and sweatshirts are usually described as around 350 GSM and above, although exact ranges vary between suppliers.
Why do sweatshirts shrink?
Cotton fibres relax and contract when washed and dried with heat. Pre-shrunk fabric, blends and cool washing reduce shrinkage.
Which fabric pills less, cotton or a blend?
Good cotton-polyester blends with a firm knit usually pill less than soft, loosely knitted pure cotton.
Can sweatshirts be sublimated?
Only white or light-coloured polyester-rich fabrics can be sublimated. Cotton and dark fabrics need screen printing, DTF or embroidery.
About Rockhint
Rockhint is a custom sportswear manufacturer in Sialkot, Pakistan. We make team uniforms, fitness wear and private-label apparel in our own factory, with a 20-piece minimum, free 24-hour mockups and worldwide shipping. Learn more about us or browse all products.
Not sure which weight to choose? Request a free quote · WhatsApp +92 320 6371918 · Email info@rockhint.com